Services · Hot water
Gas Water Heater Replacement for Homes Across the GTA
Swapping a gas-fired tank is a venting, fuel and safety job, not just a tank exchange. Venting, gas connection, combustion air and seismic strapping all have to be right.
- Repair or replace explained side by side
- Hot water confirmed at the furthest tap
- Burner, elements, anode and venting checked

Diagnosis first, tested after
- Licensed & insured: ask us
- Camera before cutting
- Water-tested repairs
- Booked by phone
Signs it is time to call
A shell that weeps, a heater well beyond its expected life that keeps needing repairs, or a household that has outgrown its tank are the usual reasons. So is a switch from rental to owned equipment. Plan before failure: replacing on your schedule beats replacing with a flooded floor.
- Water pooling under the tank
- Rust at the cold or hot fittings
- Rating plate date well past ten years
- Not enough hot water for current use
On the job, step by step
- Isolate fuel and water, empty the old unit and break its connections.
- Confirm the vent: a natural-draft chimney connection, or a power-vent through the wall with PVC.
- Set the new tank on a pan or stand as needed, connect gas with a sediment trap and shut-off, and water with unions and dielectric fittings.
- Add an expansion tank where the house has a check valve or pressure regulator.
- Fill, purge, light, and check draft, combustion and gas joints.
- Remove the old tank for recycling.
GTA houses and what they change
When a furnace is replaced with a high-efficiency model, the old chimney may become too large for a water heater alone, which can cause condensation and poor draft. A liner or a power-vent unit fixes that. Only a licensed fitter may touch the gas side here, and the job may carry a permit or notice. Ask about rental return logistics if you are leaving a rental contract.
Before you pick up the phone
Ask what vent type the new tank will use and whether permits are included. Call (365) 387-8531 with your current tank size and location.
Signs you need this
- Rusty or brown water from the hot side only
- A puddle at the foot of the heater after each burn cycle
- Pilot will not stay lit, or elements trip the breaker
What is included
- MultimeterElectric elements and thermostats tested in place
- Combustion and draft checkConfirms the flue is pulling exhaust out of the house
- Typical cause
- Sediment, worn anode, failed thermocouple or element
- Access point
- Burner door, element covers, drain valve
- Proof of fix
- Full temperature at the furthest tap
Common questions
Can a power-vent heater go anywhere?
It needs a route for its vent to an exterior wall within the manufacturer’s length limits and an electrical outlet nearby.